how do your cylinder bar look? are they worn badly. sometimes if they're wore bad the raddler will plug. hop this helps.

 

Do you have a bigger sprocket driving the beater? When you slow down the cylinder it slows that beater down too so sometimes you have to speed the beater back up. The book says this is mainly in green and weedy beans and that it prevents the stems wrapping on the beater.

 

I agree good cylinder bars can cure alot of things. I've also seen high houred M2/L2's that the beater as worn so thin it was completely worn out. The later model M2's and L2's instead of having a chain run a 2 groove belt. Those seem to run much smoother and quieter.

 

when we had a M2 we only used the filler plates on the cylinder between the rasp bars for corn.

 

Take the filler bars OUT !!! They are for CORN only. Run the cylinder speed at 800 rpm and if grain damage is too high, then begin to slow it down just enough to stop damage. Concave clearance probably 1/2" or a little less. Install a 25 tooth sprocket on the left end of the cylinder to run the beater faster(std is 18 tooth). Slip clutch on the thresher beater has to be good and not slipping. Raise up the steel curtain above the sep raddle under the grain tank....no, better yet take it out and throw it away. Good cylinder bars are a must. Eng speed 2520-2570 rpm wide open.

 

In addition to what everyone else has said- make sure the concave extension rack doesn't have some or all the fingers broken off. Its possible your machine doesn't have the extension in it at all. It bolts to the rear of the concave and the fingers curve up and over the thresher raddle to prevent backfeeding.

 

Drallis funny you mention engine rpm wide open (throttle lever). Had a neighbor once with an IH machine that never ran full throttle on his machine for about three years and could not figure out why it did not perform as it should.

 

I almost hate to even mention engine speed, because everyone ASSUMES the digital cab tachometers are always accurate....most of the time they are, but....I had an F2 diesel many years ago that the cab tach said 2500 RPM and in reality was only 2100 RPM !!! He was a very unhappy customer (bought it from another dealer who was then out of business) and never could get out of 1st gear. After an RPM correction we were not only going faster in 1st, we actually could shift into 2nd gear. It was a 50% increase in capacity all because of low engine speed!!!