Maybe the fuel pickup in the tank is plugged. Had that happen once and combine definitely lacked power. Once we got that cleaned out and the trash in the bottom of the sump out, it was much happier.

You shouldn't have to crank and crank to start even if the fuel prime is lost. The lift pump should be able to prime the whole system if you just leave the key on for a while before you crank.

 

i have heard that as well....but i have to...unless i open the bleeder valve on the thermostat for a bit...i just checked to see if the phonic wheel slipped..as we've had happen, it hasn't...also checked pressure after the filter...when first starting it up, it'll have 50psi for a few seconds, then go down to 44...and at hi idle it has 65...i don't have a book..so im not sure as of yet what spec is, but i'll check RN

 

You didnt say the hours, but if you have checked everything else (fuel filters, fuel hoses). It might be the gear fuel pump that is on the engine. Plastic gears wear and you wont get enough fuel.

 

Check gear pump pressure. Any boost leaks?

 

gear pump pressure is to spec...no boost leaks..engine has 3700 hrs...so i took off the fuel supply and return line and plugged the return and put 70 psi air into the supply line hoping to find out if my injectors are leaking, and water came out of my coolant reservoir....so evidently the water system is pressurized....so cracked head or head gasket..? not entirely sure how to check injectors now...i spose' i got bigger problems....just don't know why i wasn't getting fuel into my coolant...the machine uses a bit of coolant...2.5 gal on 250ish hours...

 

You pressurized the fuel system and had water or liquid come out of coolant reservoir? Bad injector cup? I think it has injector cups. Not sure they contact coolant. Any fuel in coolant? Most leak both ways. fuel into coolant when fuel pressure is higher. Coolant in fuel when shut off and hot, coolant pressure is higher.
By the sounds of it. You may want to pull the head and get down to what the problem is. A proper repair.

 

yep..coolant comes out...not sure of that either...im not sure of fuel in coolant..gonna send a sample in today of both engine oil and coolant ..plan on pulling the head..all sign point towards it being cracked

 

Can you get the head checked locally? That's a dying art anymore. Local dealer used to have a full machine shop for engines but that went away in the early 2000s. I'm sure there's some around Houston but I know of only one left out here in our area. Good luck and let us know what you find. Hopefully nothing too bad.

 

I once had an engine that acted the same way. No doubt it's a starved fuel issue. Mine turned out to be a short flexible hose coming from the tank that would collapse during high fuel requirements.

 

Your fuel pressure should be 75 psi all the time.

With the key-switch turned to the ON position and with the engine cranking, the specification for the common rail fuel pump pressure is 1 bar (19 to 20 PSI).
6.	With the engine running at high idle, the common rail fuel pump pressure is regulated to approximately 5 to 6 bar (72 to 87 PSI).
7.	Ensure that a minimum of 5.2 bar (75 PSI) is maintained during full load (100%) engine operation.

hope this helps!
Boost psi can be monitored from the monitor to ensure no boost leaks.

 

Just did head on 7120 this summer. 3 cracked injector cups, coolant in the fuel. Get it changed before it takes out your injectors and injection pump.

 

Install a fuel pressure gauge into the outlet test port on the engine mounted fuel filter. The outlet side of the filter connects to the common fuel rail in the cylinder head.

1.	Relieve the fuel system pressure by loosening the air bleed screw, item number 3 in the attachment.
2.	Remove plug, item number 4, with a 7mm hex wrench. The test port thread size is ¼-inch x 19 BSPT (British Standard Pipe Tapered).
3.	Connect a fuel pressure gauge that can read 0 to 20 bar (0 to 300 psi) to the test port.
4.	Turn the key-switch to ON but do not start the engine. The specification for the electric fuel pump is 0.62 bar (9 PSI) to the fuel rail.
5.	With the key-switch turned to the ON position and with the engine cranking, the specification for the common rail fuel pump pressure is 1 bar (19 to 20 PSI).
6.	With the engine running at high idle, the common rail fuel pump pressure is regulated to approximately 5 to 6 bar (72 to 87 PSI).
7.	Ensure that a minimum of 5.2 bar (75 PSI) is maintained during full load (100%) engine operation. Better explanation here.

 

Took the head off...small black o-ring is damaged on the head gasket, but could have happened when removing I suppose. Pressure checked the fuel system again, heard air moving in a gallery in the vicinity of injector no. 1. Replaced said injector with a spare, and tried again, not hearing air...gauge is slowly losing pressure though. Took off the thermostat housing to do some looking around, pressure checked again and air was coming from the same place as earlier. Thought we might have damaged the injector o-ring when testing, but took it out and saw nothing, put it back and now I can't hear anything anymore....when draining coolant for head removal...i noticed it really smells like diesel, so i took samples of coolant and oil and sent them for testing i'll check out the fuel line...... as far as fuel pressure...i'm not totally familiar, but i don't think its a common rail system...not high pressure common rail anyway..i spose its still a common rail since they all get fuel from the same place

 

unsure what the line is on one of the sleeves...its on the others as well...just not as visible...head is currently at the shop getting checked out

 

Those cylinder walls look too polished to me, I'm a master certified Case IH engine technician. Unless the pictures are not picking it up I don't see any cross hatch pattern left in those sleeves, my guess is yoy need a rebuild. JMHO unless like I said the camera didn't pick up the cross hatch pattern.

 

and here i thought it still looked good...guess that shows what i know. i'll attach a sample from 200 hrs ago..see if it throws any red flags to you one thing i noticed is how clean the cylinders are...i expected a lot more carbon buildup..also i forgot to take a picture of the intake manifold before taking it to the doctor, but it looked more like an exhaust manifold...totally full of buildup...i assume it was from when it still had EGR it seemed abnormal because we recently rebuilt a 12.9 from a steiger 500 with 12k hours and it was totally clean

 

Attached is an oil sample report from last week...doesn't point toward a rebuild...I failed to mention, the engine uses quite a bit of oil, about 2 gallons per 170 hours. Considering a rebuild, I'm wondering what options are available for a 10.3. Has anyone here rebuilt one? If so, what brand kit did you go with and would you recommend it? We rebuilt a 12.9L and went with reliance...seems ok, but i can't find a kit for a 10.3L on their website

 

Since its a 10.3 iveco just phone a couple wreckers and buy a used complete engine. Many engines with 2000 to 3000 hours at wreckers up here.
In spring I searched a few times "just in case" and found 20 engines available from $8k to $12k (Canadian $$$) with some warranty.
Combine world had them avail at both Brandon MB and Elstow SK stores and other wreckers had good selection as well.
Since they were so plentiful you would not likely have to pay much of a core charge and could keep your old engine for parts.

 

I'm considering a rebuilt 10.3L engine for $17,500 CAD ($12,600 USD). Waiting to hear back on the rebuild kit brand.